Evergreen Grill

Wrong Turn

Recently, I diverted from my typical Sunday Brunch routine of dining at Tonica to try something new. Because I wanted to dine close to home, I chose a place that I haven't been to in a long time. It was so long ago that when I dined there, it was a French restaurant that served me duck à l'orange that was really good. Fast forward a decade or two, the restaurant that currently operates in the space where I had the fancy duck dinner is far different today. Evergreen Grill is the complete opposite of an upscale restaurant, for it is more of a bar that serves decent food that probably won't win any awards. Instead of competing with Tonica, Ecco, India Palace and other nearby restaurants that are on the upper echelon of quality, it seems that Evergreen Grill's goal is to be a step above the Taco Bell restaurant that is literally within shouting distance of the "grill." Judging from the omelet that I got, I would have been better off by making "a run to the border" for brunch.

3-Egg Omelette from Evergreen Grill in Memphis, Tennessee

When I ordered the 3 Egg Omelette with nearly everything, I expected something that looked remotely like an omelet. As you can see in the picture above, my "omelette" was nothing more than a pile of vegetables and ham bits on top of a frittata. Without any cheese to keep it all together, this “omelet” was the worst made omelet that I ever had. It seems that very little effort was put into making the omelet, which doesn’t require much skill. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to cook eggs and put cheese and other things on and into the eggs. I’ve had bad omelets in the past that I would never eat again, but at least some effort was put into making them. For what it’s worth, everything in (or rather on) the “omelette” was tasty but lacked the cheese and overall compactness of an omelet. Overall, the 3 Egg Omelette was decent but not what I expected. If Evergreen Grill is incapable of making an actual omelet, then it shouldn't put it on a menu to mislead its customers.

Going To Philly

Philly Cheesesteak sandwich from Evergreen Grill in Memphis, Tennessee

With Evergreen Grill leaving a bad first impression, I went there two more times to see what it was like. Staying within a “Philly” theme, I got the Evergreen Grill’s version of the Philly cheesesteak sandwich. While I’m not too familiar with the sandwich, I will admit that the restaurant’s version meets the prerequisites for the hoagie. The Philly had a good amount of sliced ribeye steak and provolone cheese, along with sautéed onions and lots of sliced bell peppers. In a tasty hoagie roll, the Philly was flavorful and decent although it lacked the greasiness of cheesesteak sandwiches that I’ve had in the past. The fries were good and complemented the sandwich well, so much so that I decided to get a plate of fries as a "Philly."

Philly Fries from Evergreen Grill in Memphis, Tennessee

Compared to the sandwich, I really enjoyed the Philly Fries. Like the sandwich, the fries are topped with various bell peppers (listed as "tricolor peppers" on the menu), sautéed onions and sliced ribeye steak. Instead of provolone, the appetizer uses a queso cheese dip that has a similar flavor but obviously easier to swirl the fries in. Although the restaurant considers the Philly Fries one of its "starters" rather than an entrée, I treated it as a full meal that didn't leave me wanting more. While it isn't comparable to duck à l'orange, the Philly Fries are something that one could settle into for either lunch or a no-frills dinner. To be honest, I liked the fries better than the Philly sandwich and will likely get the appetizer if I ever visit Evergreen Grill again.

In conclusion, Evergreen Grill is a decent neighborhood restaurant and bar that serves good food. Within the Evergreen neighborhood, it carves out a niche for affordable dining for Midtown Memphians looking to save money while getting a meal that's a cut above fast food. Although it might take a while for me to become a "regular" customer, I appreciated the friendly hospitality from the bartenders and servers who waited on me, which made me feel welcome. While it won't substitute for Tonica as a brunch destination, I can see myself occasionally dining there or ordering takeout/delivery. While it likely won't be my first option, the atmosphere of Evergreen Grill will likely appeal to some Memphians. It's worth checking out.



In Memoriam
At the start of the year (2026), I lost a good friend to illness. Alyssa Holliday was a person who could brighten anyone’s day with her smile and outgoing personality. From the first time I met her as a bartender at the former Lolo’s Table twenty years ago, Alyssa has been a great friend to me, someone I could always call whenever I needed someone to talk to. She was never hesitant to help a friend out and was a very giving person, inviting friends into her home for camaraderie and her delicious cooking. Alyssa's death is not only a loss to friends and family, but to the Memphis restaurant community. Alyssa has worked at various restaurants in Memphis, including the location where Evergreen Grill is, making a positive difference to Memphians and anyone else who had the good fortune to meet her. She will be a loss to those who loved her, but Alyssa will always be in their hearts and minds. I’m saddened that Alyssa’s life ended so early, but I’m fortunate to have had her in my life when she was alive. Alyssa is survived by her son Jackson, who I’m sure will honor her life and preserve a legacy of goodwill and kindness. Rest in peace, Alyssa, for you will always be missed but never forgotten.
Alyssa Holliday, The Red Headed Chef, mother, friend

For anyone who either knew her or is curious about who Alyssa was, please watch this YouTube video commemorating her life.

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