This blog is devoted to highlighting restaurants of Memphis, Tennessee.

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

Elwood's Shack

Everything But Ribs

As a fan of barbecue, I'm always looking for new places to satisfy my fix. Fortunately, the restaurants of Summer Avenue offer much in that regard, ranging from dry rub ribs from Central BBQ to barbecue nachos from Big Mike's Smoke Shack (a food truck that usually sells at the Summer Avenue Farmers Market). Speaking of "shacks," I want to focus on Elwood's Shack, the tiny restaurant next to Lowe's on the corner (sort of) of Summer and Perkins. Formerly the Pizza Shack, Elwood's offers a huge menu ranging from quesadillas to quiche, although its best stuff comes from a barrel smoker behind the "shack." The restaurant serves barbecue in various forms like ribs and sandwiches and in unconventional ways such as pizza. The Shack smokes both pork and beef, with the latter being some of the best I've ever had (it also barbecues chicken, to a lesser extent). For anyone that isn't either a vegetarian or vegan (or averse to barbecue) can likely find something favorable from the BBQ menu of Elwood's Shack.
Texas Beef Brisket Taco
Brisket Taco
Because there are so many things to choose from, trying to cover everything for a review is a daunting challenge so I'll start with some popular favorites. Elwood's brisket and pork tacos are behemoths (possibly half a pound) that come with the restaurant's standard "field greens" (mostly lettuce), cheeses, Pico de Gallo, chopped onions, avocado and creamy horseradish. The meats in both tacos are rich in smoke flavor that didn't need barbecue sauce or dry rub to accentuate it. Pulled Pork TacoCollectively, the toppings made for a tangy alternative to coleslaw and helped make the tacos really good. Fortunately, the toppings and barbecue didn't weaken the sturdy flour tortillas that made eating them nearly mess-free (they're flexible too, as demonstrated by the pork taco pictured on the right). Overall, both tacos made a very good impression on me and I look forward to eating them often.


Another menu item that I hope to eat often is Elwood's Texas Beef Brisket Sandwich. Comprised of nothing more than pickles, chopped onions and a lot of beef brisket doused in greasy barbecue sauce. I'm not sure if the grease comes from the mildly sweet BBQ sauce or the brisket, but there was enough of it to warrant a lot of paper towels. Not that I'm complaining (after all, I love greasy food) but I wonder if this is good for my health. Regardless of the consequences, the brisket sandwich is too good to give up and if it kills me, I'll die with a big, greasy smile on my face. Seriously, this is a very good sandwich that I recommend to health nuts, gluttons and anyone else who appreciates excellent barbecue.


With Elwood's Shack being a former pizza joint, it wouldn't have felt right to ignore Elwood's BBQ Pizza. Setting on top of a thick and fluffy crust, the pizza has lots of pulled pork and Mozzarella cheese drizzled with sweet barbecue sauce. Compared to the more famous Coletta's that probably made Memphis' first barbecue pizza, Elwood's pie is better because the pork is smoked, hot and fresh. Now, before you chastise me for my "brilliant" analysis, I will say that Coletta's pizza had none of those qualities and pretty much shied me away from barbecue pizzas for a long time. I've come around since then, and now I occasionally enjoy a barbecue pizza whenever I can get it. That said, Elwood's Shack stands shoulder to shoulder with Aldo's Pizza Pies as having one of the best barbecue pizzas in town. However, Aldo's has a slight edge in the number of hot chicks on staff (such as sexy bartender Cora) so I'll lean slightly towards it if everything else is equal. That doesn't diminish my feelings for Elwood's, for its barbecue pizza hits the spot whenever I need a nice diversion from work.

SIDE NOTE: On the day I ordered my pizza, I phoned it in fifteen minutes before I took my meager thirty-minute lunch break. With so little time to eat, I wanted to make the most of it by ordering ahead of time so that I could use my break for eating, not waiting. Unfortunately, Elwood's Shack is extremely popular during lunch so I ended up waiting several minutes in line before paying for my pizza. Luckily, I managed to get a rare table so I didn't waste time on that but I still had only fifteen minutes to scoff down my pizza and return to work. Despite doing my best Joey Chestnut impression, I couldn't finish my lunch in my allotted time and was five minutes late in getting back to work (which is across the street from Elwood's). I guess what I'm trying to emphasize here is that if you go to Elwood's Shack for lunch, set aside a lot of time for it. It's worth it.


If you want a taste of Elwood's barbecue but don't have either the time or the convenience of going to the "Shack" for either lunch or dinner, I would like to suggest getting Elwood's BBQ Burrito for breakfast. Filled with your choice of pork or beef along with scrambled eggs, jalapeños, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, cheddar cheese and a lot of barbecue sauce, the burrito is a dripping hot mess of goodness. I want to emphasize the "dripping" part of that because you will need a lot of napkins and a bib to eat this without messing up your clothes. The last time I ate it, I left Elwood's with a huge grease spot on my shirt that was a bit embarrassing. It was worth it, for the taste of smoked pulled pork, jalapeños, eggs and cheese in my mouth had me smiling when I went to work. Needless to say, you probably shouldn't eat the burrito while driving without wearing a plastic bag over your clothes. Whenever I get my next barbecue burrito, I might eat it with a fork and knife instead of eating it by hand. However it goes down, Elwood's BBQ Burrito is damn good!
As you can see, I really like Elwood's Shack for barbecue. Although the restaurant offers food beyond the barbecue realm, nothing that I had so far compares to its BBQ. Of course, I only had a sampling of it so I won't rush to judgment before trying more of it. My friends told me that Elwood's fish taco is really good so I might get that sometime in the near future (but not before getting a half rack of ribs). For now, I will just regard Elwood's Shack as a top destination for barbecue because it is so, so GOOD! ☺

Website: ElwoodsShack.com

Elwood's Shack on Urbanspoon

LabelsAmerican, Barbecue, Breakfast, Brunch, Nutbush/Berclair, Pizza, Sandwiches, Seafood, Summer Avenue, Tacos



Follow Ken's Food Find

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Ryu Sushi Bar

Another First

After years of blogging, I find it hard to believe that this is my first sushi review. I guess my passion for burgers, barbecue and Soul Food was more important than broadening my food experiences. Fortunately, working on Summer Avenue has exposed me to a variety of cuisines ranging from barbecue to barbacoa, so I have an opportunity to try a lot of foods that I would normally ignore. With regards to sushi, it was inevitable that I would venture out to one of the many Japanese restaurants on Summer for my first review about it.

From the top: Fire, Memphis, Rock 'n Roll

For my sushi selection, I relied on the smartphone app Swarm (Foursquare's successor) for advice. The overwhelming favotites were the "Fire" and "Rock 'n Roll" (previous named "Kalisu") rolls, so I got them along with Ryu's "Memphis" roll. All three choices were quite good, with the Fire roll being the best among them. Despite its name, the Fire roll was mildly spicy, for the chili sauce gave it enough heat to make it tasty without suppressing everything else in it. Speaking of that, the shrimp and cucumber added a crunchy dimension to the Fire roll that made it a delight to eat. There was also crunchy shrimp in the Rock 'n Roll, topped with a creamy crab topping and a lot of soy sauce that combined for a very good sushi roll that I hope to have again. The Memphis roll, with its raw salmon and cream cheese, was decent although it didn't scream "Bluff City" when I ate it. If it were left to me, I would have gone with smoked salmon to honor Memphis' barbecue heritage. Nonetheless, I liked it and along with the other sushi rolls and fried rice (good enough to hold its own with Asian Palace), which made for a very nice dinner.

SIDE NOTE: Along with my sushi, I drank two bottles of Kirin Ichiban, the malty Japanese pale lager at $3.50 apiece. How is it that a Japanese restaurant can sell imported beer at that price, while my favorite draught emporium can't offer a low-cost beer that most of its surrounding competitors serve? Yes, I'm talking about the Flying Saucer not selling Pabst Blue Ribbon (PBR) while other Downtown Memphis restaurants (ranging from Hooters to the Majestic Grille) manage to offer it at a lower cost than the Saucer's daily beer special (known as the "Fire Sale"). Unlike the Saucer, Ryu is trying to stay competitive with nearby restaurants with beer prices that are very agreeable. If it's possible, I suggest that the Flying Saucer borrow a case of PBRs from its sister restaurant Flying Fish and gauge the reaction from its customers. I believe the response will be favorable and entice former "regulars" who hang out at places like the Silly Goose to put the Saucer back on their beer drinking maps.

Overall, I liked everything I had at Ryu Sushi Bar and will likely become a frequent patron. With it being across the street from my new cellphone service provider T-Mobile, I see myself dining there often after paying my monthly bill. My phone plan includes the provider's Mobile HotSpot service that will give me Internet access at home. By the way, switching to T-Mobile was necessary due to my current residence at my Dad's house in North Memphis, which a Downtown Memphis blogger calls "Norf Norf Memphris" that seems racially charged in a David Duke sort of way. I guess haters are gonna hate. Fortunately, the staff at Ryu are very friendly and will appreciate your business, so give it try whenever you're in the Berclair neighborhood. You won't regret it.

Website: www.RyuSushiBar.com

Ryu Sushi Bar on Urbanspoon

LabelsAsian, Beer, Commentary, Japanese, Nutbush/Berclair, Summer Avenue, Sushi



Follow Ken's Food Find


Monday, January 26, 2015

Jasmine

Finally (Part 4)

It has taken me a long time in getting to it, but I am proud to present my review of Jasmine Thai and Vegetarian Restaurant. Formerly a residential property in the heart of Memphis' Cooper-Young neighborhood, the restaurant is a small and cozy place that feels like home. It reminds me of a restaurant that I visited often when I was in Italy. Located about ten kilometers from Aviano Air Base in the town of Montereale Valcellina, the Spaghetti House (yes, that is the actual name) was a family-owned restaurant that served some of best pasta I have ever had. This isn't hyperbole (using my big word of the day), but the "House" served spaghetti with many different sauces and meats such as rabbit and venison. But despite it being the Baskins & Robbins of spaghetti, what I liked most about the Spaghetti House was its hospitality. The owners made me feel like a member of the family, something I appreciated. Since leaving Italy, I have long sought a restaurant with a similar family atmosphere. So far, the closest place where I have found that quality is Jasmine, my home away from home.

SIDE NOTE: In researching for this review, I've discovered that the Spaghetti House legacy lives on in America. At Dante's Bistro Bar & Grill in Barrington, New Hampshire, diners can get entrees that originated from recipes of the Meneguzzi family, my Italian "relatives" who I sorely miss.


When I returned to Memphis, I was at a loss in finding places to socialize. For a while, I hung out in Overton Square and Cooper-Young because of the neighborhoods' proximity to my house and for the convenience as stopover points after leaving work. Consequently, I found Jasmine as my new place for "home" meals. Although I don't get the same sense of family that I got at the Spaghetti House, I am always treated extremely well. That goes for both the matriarch (who's definitely not a "mama-san") of the house and its former waitstaff that it had before the economy went to crap in 2008 (but now slowly rebounding). In my opinion, I don't believe there are many restaurants in Memphis and elsewhere that offer a "home" environment like Jasmine, so I try to support the few that do.

SIDE NOTE: By the way, I don't want to imply that Memphis restaurants in general aren't appreciative of its customers. In particular, the places that I frequent the most are somewhat like "homes" too. For example, the Reillys and the staff at the Majestic Grille always welcome me with open arms and excellent service. Also, my relationship with Chef Brian Michael Patrick, going back several years when he was at Sleep Out Louie's, endures to this day. As the owner of Rizzo's Diner (who deserves huge congrats for recently moving to a bigger location at 492 South Main St.), Chef Mike makes it a point to ensure that all his patrons feel at home by personally greeting them and following up during their meals (unless he's busy in the kitchen). Chef Mike is a really good friend, as is restaurateur Aldo Demartino (aka "Aldo Dean"). As the owner of Bardog Tavern, Slider Inn and his namesake Aldo's Pizza Pies (with a new location opening next Spring on Cooper Street, a few blocks away from Jasmine), Aldo is loyal to both his "regulars" and employees who make his businesses gems among Memphis restaurants. On a personal level, Aldo and his people have taken very good care of me throughout years, even when I haven't been at my best (as in drunk). I want them to know that I'm appreciative and grateful for that and will always be loyal to the "Aldo brand."


In writing about service and loyalty, I almost forgot about the food. For that, I took a rare venture into vegetarianism. At Jasmine, I got the Yum Voon Sen, a vermicelli (grass noodles) dish with soy tofu, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and peanuts. Unlike Thai dishes that I'm accustomed to, this is a "cold" entrée that isn't fried, roasted or prepared in any other heated cooking method. The most noticeable thing about the Yum Voon Sen is its pungent aroma that tastes like sweat, stemming from the raw onions and cucumbers. To undercut that, I plucked out the onions and added a lot of heavily-seeded Thai pepper sauce. As I will explain later, using an ample amount of Jasmine's hot sauce is a big no-no for me. However, it was the only way I could overcome the aroma and finish my lunch. Rice and beer (Singha, Thailand's finest and much better and less ridiculous than a Bud Light) also helped, with the beer also helping me overcome the aftertaste. The vermicelli was bland, although it contributed to an interesting meal that was memorable. I would be lying if I said that I would order this again, but I don't want to discourage others from giving Jasmine's Yum Voon Sen a try if for no other reason than to experience something new.

SIDE NOTE: I believe that I now know the difference between an egg roll and a spring roll. After looking up both "rolls" in Wikipedia, I finally found clarity. The difference is in the wrapping, for egg rolls use flour dough that is thicker and flakier than a thinly wrapped spring roll. Adding to my confusion, Vietnamese spring rolls (such as the ones I had at Pho Binh) come wrapped in rice paper. Well, now that I know better, I will no longer use the two terms interchangeably for the same thing. That said, Jasmine's spring rolls are quite good although they don't top those of Shang Hai, in my opinion.


After having a taste of Vegetarian Thai, I focused on something that is more appealing to me. Before I start, I have an admission to make: my favorite Jasmine entrée is the Kung Pao Three. Yes, I know this is a Chinese dish but I love eating it with a glass of Yellow Tail Chardonnay. For this review, it wouldn't have been smart to write about it (and get clowned by certain individuals for it) so I decided to go pure Thai. To make sure that I was getting something legit, I sought the advice of the matriarchal owner who suggested the Basil Curry Paste Tofu with beef. When I ordered it, the lady (whose name I should know) asked me if I wanted it spicy or mild. Forgetting my past experiences, I foolishly chose "spicy" without giving it a second thought. However, my memories quickly came back when I dug into my plate. Despite the vegetables and seasoning, the biggest thing that stood out in the curry/tofu dish was the level of the spiciness. It was so hot that it overwhelmed everything else on my plate, including the curry. When compared to other foods, it wasn't the spiciest thing that I've had. It certainly doesn't come close to Kooky Canuck's Holy Smoke! Wings that made me tap out after the first bite (by the way, "Kooky" owner Shawn Danko is another great guy who is loyal to his customers). Still, the curry/tofu had me drinking copious amounts of water in order to nearly finish my meal. After finishing the curry/tofu and rice on my plate, I took the rest of it home and ate it the next day with Ramen noodles. With only a small amount, I was able to enjoy it better because it wasn't as spicy. Overall, I liked the Basil Curry Paste Tofu in spite of the spiciness but will definitely get a milder version the next time around. If there's a lesson to take from this, it is to respect the spiciness of Thai cuisine.
Now that I've finally written about the only restaurant among my Urbanspoon Favorites that hadn't been reviewed by me (for the few desktop users who visit my blog, the list is on right side of the screen), I can start this year on a positive. Jasmine has been and will always be a special place to go to whenever I need to chill in a homey environment. Since my first visit that happened over a decade ago, I have established allegiances with many more restaurants in Memphis, particularly with Downtown establishments. While I lean slightly more to Memphis' safest neighborhood, it doesn't diminish my love for my favorite Thai restaurant. Granted, there may be other places that serve better Thai food, but none do it with the hospitality and enthusiasm that Jasmine does. For that, I will always be loyal to it.

Jasmine Thai & Vegetarian Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Labels: Asian, Chinese, Commentary, Midtown, Thai, Vegetarian/Vegan



Follow Ken's Food Find

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

"Where Are You From?"

From a "foreigner"

Despite living in Memphis for most of my life, I feel like an outsider socially. Even among people who I have known for a long time, I find myself struggling to fit in. I believe part of the reason for that (other than my overall social ineptitude) is in how I talk. With an accent that isn't either "Southern" or "black" enough by most standards, most people hit me with the question "where are you from" when sizing me up. Even after affirming my Memphis roots, many locals perceive me as not being like them. Maybe my inability to fit in is a consequence of being perceived as foreign or weird (or to use a term that a vapid waitress has bashed me online with, "creepy"). I would be lying if I said that it doesn't bug me, but I do my best to assimilate in spite of it. Still, being me is a hard row to hoe in Memphis, especially when doing it alone.


One of the most glaring examples of my "foreigner" status was an encounter last June at a convenience store in West Memphis, Arkansas. I went there for lunch because it was down the street from where I was working as a "temp." The 7th Street Food Market (also known as "Seven Food Mart") is a typical Southern gas station and convenience store that serves takeout Soul Food to working class people who prefer a fresh meal over fast food. Among the things that I ate at the 7th, the most impressive was the macaroni and cheese mixed with ground beef. A likely version of Hamburger Helper, the beef in it was well seasoned and very tasty. The cheese was thick and creamy, complementing my roasted chicken well. Speaking of that, the chicken and greens were okay and the cornbread was so-so (to be honest, I'm not much of a cornbread person). Given what I ate, I'm safe in saying that the food at 7th Street Food Market is decent but not worth a twenty-minute trip from Midtown to get.
Overall, it was an average meal on its own that wasn't worthy enough to blog about. However, what made it noteworthy was the ladies working the lunch counter who reminded me of my outsider status. After waiting behind two black guys (apparently "locals") before placing my order, I got hit with a "where are you from" blast after uttering my first words. Whether it was something in my voice or the manner that I spoke, those ladies seemed a bit put off by me. So, despite being a black Southerner (with a patriarchal grandfather born in Arkansas), I came off as a peculiar outlier to those African-American women. Usually in these types of situations, this kind of reaction isn't that blatant, but I rolled with it without any fuss. I'm not sure what to make of it, for the service itself was good but the ladies' reaction kind of rubbed me the wrong way. Although I'm sure it wasn't intentional (after all, they were courteous), I didn't feel completely welcomed at the 7th. As someone who seeks to be a part of the community, encounters like this are discouraging and make me less inclined to go out. However, I don't have the luxury to live in a cocoon so I have to persevere despite being an oddity.

SIDE NOTE: I want to stress that my encounter at 7th Street Food Market isn't strictly a "black thing." I get similar reactions from Asians, Hispanics (including a guy who glossed me as "Benson") and even white people.

It seems that no matter what I do, I will always be the odd man out in Memphis and possibly other places. Fortunately, I have friends who accept me as I am and are very supportive. With them, I can be myself without worrying whether I come off as an oddball or something distasteful. As for everyone else, stop asking me where I'm from.

NOTE: I apologize for this unconventional review. This was more about getting something off my chest than anything else.



LabelsCommentary, Gas Station/Convenience Store, Soul Food, Southern, West Memphis



Follow Ken's Food Find